Maine is deceptive. It is the twelfth smallest state, but it has more uninhabited wilderness – 10 million acres – than any other state but Alaska.
~Bill Bryson
August 15, 2021
Hike from Johnson Pond Road to Jo-Mary Road (100 Mile Wilderness, Maine)
AT miles: 7.1 miles
Ascent: 180’
Descent: 757’
Weather: Glorious — sunny and around 70
Sightings: moose poop, a frog
High points: Lunch at Cooper Brook Falls Lean-to
I am now in Maine slackpacking about 60+ miles of the 100 Mile Wilderness with a group called “Adventures in Good Company“. This is a luxury hiking trip, complete with meals, guides, and a wonderful hostel each night.
Eight of us signed up for this adventure. We are spending each night at the Appalachian Trail Lodge in Millinocket, Maine. We shuttle to the AT each morning, hike, and then return each evening to the hostel for a shower, appetizers, and a wonderful dinner. And I get to spend each night on a comfy mattress with easy access to indoor plumbing!
Millinocket is at the northern tip of civilization in Maine. North of this last outpost is a vast area, encompassing much of the northern third of Maine, that used to be owned by lumber companies who harvested timber and brought it to Millinocket to be processed into paper. Those days are long gone. The paper company shut permanently in 2008, leaving Millinocket a small city in search of jobs. The surrounding woods are now owned by a mixture of lumber companies, private owners, and state entities. To enter this unbelievably large tract of woods you need to go through one of a few gated entrances, state why you are entering, and pay a hefty usage fee. Inside this unimaginably large expanse of woods, the roads are a mass of old dirt logging roads. If you make enough wrong turns on them, you could end up in Canada!
This morning after a wonderful breakfast we left the lodge. After passing through the gate signaling that we were no longer on public roads, our shuttle rattled down nearly ten miles of dirt roads, finally dropping us off on the Appalachian Trail. We walked by Crawford Pond, a lovely Maine lake.
Aside from one nasty rock scramble, today’s hike was fairly easy. The trail had occasional rocks and roots, but much to my joy there was almost no mud. The forest was mostly open and sun-dappled.
We stopped at a lovely shelter for lunch. It was next to Cooper Brook Falls, an enchanting series of small waterfalls.
The forest was mostly fir trees, but widely spaced.
There was yet another waterfall at Mary-Jo Road, where we met the shuttle.
After returning to the hostel, I took a shower, had a glass of wine, and had some interesting conversation over a wonderful dinner. This is truly a decadent way to hike!
Today is a great day for a long walk in the woods!
Sounds very nice! I’m glad there’s no mud! Thanks for the beautiful pictures. I miss Maine vacations so it’s great to “experience” it again through your pictures.