“Life is a fatal adventure. It can only have one end. So why not make it as far-ranging and free as possible?”
-Thornton Wilder
September 4, 2021
Hike from Rhododendron Gap to Saunders Shelter
AT miles: 19.7
Ascent: 2232’
Descent: 4491’
Weather: partly sunny with temps in the low 70’s
High points: the amazing views both leaving Rhododendron Gap and hiking alongside Whitetop Mountain
As we left Rhododendron Gap (5425’) and headed towards Mt. Rogers (5729’ but the AT only passes near not over the summit), the views were amazing!
The sun was just rising over the mountains.
The effect of the fog between the mountains with the early morning sun was glorious.
For most of the day the trail was rocky. Near Mt. Rogers the trail was wonderfully piney and mossy and green.
We still saw some freshly-downed branches trees across the trail, probably debris from Hurricane Ida.
After several miles in the woods, we climbed up to Whitetop Mountain (5525’ and the third highest peak in Virginia, but we were walking along the mountain and didn’t actually climb to the summit) and had another half mile or so of absolutely gorgeous views.
The trail wandered through the scrub, and there were all kinds of wildflowers! Goldenrod, asters, fleabane, false sunflower, red clover, Black-eyed Susan, yellow sweet clover were all blooming abundantly—a feast for the eyes!
The hiking and the views as we walked along this bald were amazing!
The trail then entered woods again, but the woods were literally fields of everlastings with a light covering of trees.
We were not yet done with amazing views. The trail again opened up into fields as we crossed yet another bald.
We hiked to Buzzard Rocks (5095’ and the fourth highest summit in Virginia), where we had lunch.
At Elk Garden (yet another beautiful bald but also a parking area), I took advantage of the trash can there and threw out three days of trash! Even while hiking in the wilderness trash needs to be dealt with!
We saw this beautiful swallowtail on a thistle near the parking area!
The trail entered the woods again, and we hiked along, enjoying the continuous downhill section. Eventually the trail joined the Virginia Creeper Trail, a very popular mountain bike path, for a mile or so. We made very good time on this dirt road while bicycles whizzed by yelling, “On your left! On your left!”
We were ready to be done for the day, but the shelter was still about five miles away. Most of the remaining miles were in gentle woodland, which made for quick and easy hiking.
Whenever hikers come across other hikers on the trail, they usually stop and talk for a minute or two, exchanging greetings and perhaps information about water sources or just chit-chatting about when they got on trail and where they are heading. My most bizarre trail encounter to date is definitely the naked hiker in Vermont, but today I had another memorable meeting. Two young men were coming up the hill, so we stopped and said hello, and one of them reached into his pack and announced, “I have a sticker for you!” I have no idea what those two young men have against Arkansas, but this is the sticker that they handed me!
Since Saunders Shelter is at the top of a sizable but unnamed hill, the last mile was taxing. We did finally make it to the shelter! The spring was an additional 0.2 hike from the shelter, but it was an easy level walk and without the weight of our packs the additional walk was a nice way to cool down from a long day.
Lots of people were at the shelter. We particularly enjoyed talking with two sisters, both homeschooled, from Montana. They generously built a fire, which we all enjoyed very much.
Strangely enough, one chain-smoking couple complained loudly whenever the smoke from the fire blew into their faces. I don’t think they saw the humor in the situation.
We only have 9.5 miles to hike tomorrow to reach our destination, Damascus! After hiking 19.7 miles today (plus 0.2 to get to the shelter and another 0.2 and back to the spring). I expect to sleep well tonight!
Today is a great day for a long walk in the woods!
Love your writing and photos as always!
Very cool butterfly and thistle!