Day 116: Hike from Fontana Hilton to Mollie’s Ridge Shelter

It is not the mountains we conquer but ourselves.

May 26, 2023
AT miles: 12.0
Ascent: 3916’
Descent: 1199’
Weather: hazy and low 60’s
Sightings: a bear
High points: The amazing view from the Shuckstack fire tower


I am starting a ten-day section hike that will hopefully allow me to finish up the southern 2/3 of the Appalachian Trail. For the first six days I’m hiking with six other people from Virginia — Pam, Chris, Matt, June, Sean, and Scott. Yesterday I drove to a hostel at the northern end of SMNP and then took a shuttle to Fontana Dam.

The shelter at Fontana Dam is known as the Fontana Hilton — it has flush toilets, hot showers, recharging stations, a water pump, and an amazing view over Fontana Lake.

Last night there were over 30 people at the Fontana Shelter! Someone made a fire and bought some hotdogs, so we had a social time around the fire.

This morning I hiked across Fontana Dam, which at 480’ is the highest concrete dam east of the Mississippi. It was impressively ginormous!

The view from the dam was impressive.

And I entered Smoky Mountain National Park!

For the most part the seven of us hiked separately.

After a couple of miles I reached the Shuckstack fire tower. It was kind of rundown, but it was tall enough to have an amazing view from the top. After not hiking any of the fire towers in Vermont I have decided to climb every available fire tower. This one was more rickety than I would’ve liked!

But it had an amazing view!

I actually saw a bear today! Sean and Scott saw two bears, and one scampered off to the left but the other one headed to the right and sat down. He was far enough from the trail that I wouldn’t have noticed him if the Scott and Sean hadn’t pointed him out to me. This is the first and only bear that I’ve seen in over 1600 miles on the Appalachian Trail!

The shelter I’m at tonight has a fireplace in the shelter. One enterprising hiker set up the fire, so it has been a cozy evening!

Today is a great day for a long walk in the woods!