I really believe that, as human beings, we have an innate need to explore, to see what’s around the corner.
~Jimmy Chin
May 29, 2023
AT miles: 15.4
Ascent: 2414’
Descent: 3077’
Weather: sunny and low 60’s
Sightings: a snail!
High points: the glorious views
After a cold start, I set off for Newfound Gap.
The cedar woods were absolutely gorgeous in a mossy, dark, fern-filled kind of way. Many hikers said it reminded them of The Lord of the Rings. To me this part of the trail really felt like I was hiking in an alien landscape. No wonder people talk so positively about the smoky mountains!
I spotted a snail creeping along a log. It was moving slowly enough that Matt and I bet we will arrive at Newfound Gap before he gets to the end of the log!
We spent about an hour at Newfound Gap (5001’) waiting for the shuttle driver who was bringing our resupply. However, we didn’t mind the wait — the Gap had flush toilets, trash cans and good cell signal (about the first I have had since leaving civilization). I was able to say hi to my husband for the first time since Fontana Dam. Newfound Gap even had a great view!
The climb out of the Newfound Gap was long and steep, but after 5 miles I arrived at Charlie’s Bunion, a rocky mound with fantastic views.
After Charlie’s Bunion, the AT went up and up along a ridge. When the wind was from the west, the temperatures were cool; when the wind was from the east, it was quite warm. The clouds were making stunning, spirals and vertices. And the occasional views were fantastic.
But the clouds occasionally rose up from the valleys, making the woods field like I was in a meeting fog.
Derrick’s Knob Shelter is a steep 0.4 mile descent from the trail, so tomorrow morning will start with a brutal uphill. The shelter is full, and every hiker is saying today was THE best day!
I think the day that I will most remember from this trip will be today, the day when I spent all day above 5000 feet, in deep primeval forests, with occasional amazing views.
Today is a great day for a long walk in the woods!
It’s been about 15 years since I did the Smokies and it was in the fall with all the autumn colors ablaze. That’s where you really fall in love with the AT. I remember the 5 of us (Chix with Stix) climbing to the top of the Clingeman’s Dome lookout and so many of the tourists were looking at us like they had never seen women hiking before. Who knew?!