Day 121: Hike from Davenport Gap Shelter to Standing Bear Hostel (northern end of Smoky Mountain National Park)

I wonder what’s going to happen exciting today. ~Pooh

May 31, 2023
AT miles: 3.8
Ascent: 469’
Descent: 1253’
Weather: warm, hazy, sunny, and low 70’s
High points: the waterfall as I was leaving the park


Today’s short hike brought me out of Smoky Mountain National Park and back to Standing Bear Hostel where I was happy to be reunited with my car.

Last night Sean heard that his dad had a health emergency, so he and Chris left first thing this morning. After saying my goodbyes, I followed shortly after.

The first 1-1/2 miles was a steady downhill. I passed this lovely little mushroom village.

The trail followed alongside a stream, so after not seeing any waterfalls during the whole hike I saw lots and lots of waterfalls, some little

and some big.

For pretty much the entire two miles down the mountain, I heard the loud booming of I–40. I am amazed by how far the noise from interstates travels. I think we are so used to background noise that we don’t really know what quiet sounds like.

And I walked under I-40.

The last mile up and out of the gap was surprisingly steep. I scrambled and panted and eventually arrived at Standing Bear Hostel, an infamous hostel on the trail. At 8:45 am I was greeted by a completely soused older man who was trying (unsuccessfully) to help poor Sean and Chris unbury their parked-in car. They were NOT happy. Eventually they did manage to get their car free.

I knocked on the door in search of a shower and was greeted by an unkempt woman in a house robe. This hostel definitely lives up to its reputation!

The shower was 100% COLD, but I was so dirty that I took the shower anyway. The shower stall was a walled-in outdoor shower with a stone floor, stained glass, and fascinating tile. Very unique!

The hostel had a really bizarre vibe, and I was very happy to leave.

I drove to Hot Springs, where I had two lovely meals within three hours.

Hot Springs is very much a trail town. The AT symbol is even in the sidewalk!

I am staying the night at Laughing Heart Hostel, a wonderful hostel with a supportive clean vibe. Tomorrow at 4:30 a.m. I’m getting a shuttle to Standing Bear Hostel, where I will spend two days hiking the 33 miles head north back to Hot Springs.

And while I only saw one bear in the Smokies, I suspect that many bears saw me. This is a picture of a bear taken by somebody else in my group. I would’ve just walked under the tree and not noticed the bear!

Today is a wonderful day for a long walk in the woods!