Day 125: Hike from Little Laurel Shelter to Hot Springs

Solo hiking. It’s all fun and games until a twig snaps behind you.

June 4, 2023
AT miles: 19.9 <SOBO>
Ascent: 3156’
Descent: 5319’
Weather: 80° and sunny, threatening thunderstorms in the afternoon
Sightings: some lovely wildflowers
High points: seeing the French Broad River

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Today was a long hot slog with no views. I did see some interesting wildflowers! Since the 13.7-mile stretch just south of Little Laurel Shelter is closed to all overnight use because of aggressive bear activity, I knew that I would see no one on trail until much later in the day.

The day started with a lovely downhill section that I danced down.

Then I came across a rather mysterious sign that said “Southern Cookie Lady” and a little arrow. I doubted that the Southern Cookie Lady was providing cookies at 8 in the morning, so I did not bother to drop by, but apparently someone here has decided to imitate the Cookie Lady in Massachusetts by providing cookies and fresh fruit and cold drinks for hikers!

Shortly after I passed that road and was back again in the woods, I heard the creepy howling of coyotes. I was tempted to turn right around and go back to that road and call up a shuttle and return to Hot Springs, but I figured that I would regret that move. I decided to be brave and go forward. Eventually, the howling did stop, but I spent 10 or 15 minutes reminding myself that courage doesn’t mean you’re not afraid; it just means that you do it anyway. I was courageous and continued my journey.

The middle part of the day involved lots of ups and downs over a section that reminded me of saw-teeth. All those ups and downs tired my legs!

Just when I had about had it with the ups and downs, the trail turned onto a very civilized dirt road. I really enjoyed the half-mile of easier walking!

By this time, I was exhausted and very hot. I could hear occasional thunder in the distance, though, so I hurried on.

I was increasingly surprised that the trail didn’t seem to be going down that much. I was expecting a gradual decline into Hot Springs like there had been from the south. Instead, I could see Hot Springs and the French Broad River through the trees, but I was 1000 feet above them! A few minutes later, I discovered how that could be –– the trail essentially made a series of switchbacks down the side of a cliff face between the mountain and the French Broad River.

Sometimes there were trees on the downward side of the trail, but sometimes there was just cliff. The trail was covered with little roly-poly rocks, so it was easy to slip. Bad things would happen if you took a spill on this section of trail, so I went very slowly. Thankfully it hadn’t started to rain yet — this section in the rain would be seriously treacherous.

This picture does not do the steepness of the angles justice. If you tripped on the downhill side of the trail, it would’ve been bad.

I walked by “Lovers Leap”, an infamous rock outcropping where an Indian maiden was supposed to have leapt to her death because of a lover.

I finally arrived at the French Broad River, a broad, fast-moving river full of white water. It even had a cute section of mini waterfalls.

After walking along the river for nearly a mile, I followed the trail across a bridge into Hot Springs. Looking back, I could see the crazy mountain face that I had just come down. It looks like a perfectly normal mountain, but that descent was far scarier than I would’ve liked. (If you look carefully, you can see some rocky cliffs, hidden amongst the tranquil-looking forest!)

After about a mile of road walking on the AT through the sleepy town of Hot Springs, I arrived at my hostel. A shower and dinner helped refresh me. Today was a long, hard hike.

I am thankful to be safe and sound, sleeping in a bed where I do not have to worry about bears or mice!

During my 10-day hike from Fontana Dam to Devil Fork Gap, I hiked 145.3 miles. I have now completed 1680.3 miles of the Appalachian Trail, which is 77% of the entire trail! So I have hiked more than 3/4 of the AT! I am getting there slowly, but surely…..

Today’s a great day for a long walk in the woods.