Day 138: Hike from Slugundy Falls to East Chairback Pond

Never follow someone else’s path unless you are in the woods and you are lost and you see a path. By all means, you should follow that. ~Ellen Degeneres

August 12, 2024
AT miles: 14.7
Ascent: 3880’
Descent: 2889’
Weather: Perfect — low 70’s and sunny
Sightings: a pitcher plant and an orchid
High points: arriving at camp for the night. I hiked 12.5 hours — it was slow going.

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I overslept and had to scramble to leave with everyone else — because of the long day we left camp at the bright and early hour of 6:00 am!

Today was just a long day. They were definitely some high points – the views were stunning, the pine forests were fascinating, and we walked through a bog (on bog boards!) and saw some orchids and pitcher plants. But overall, the hike was a long, hard struggle.

Water was everywhere — rivers, streams, waterfalls, puddings, and mud — lots and lots of mud!

Barren Ledges provided a wonderful view.

The feeling of sheer isolation was actually odd — when you looked at the scenery, there were no roads or houses or other signs of human civilization.

The woods were lovely, dark, and deep.

And after miles of muddy trail, we arrived at Fourth Mountain Bog. The name may not be very special, but this wetland sure was.

I saw orchids growing in the wild! I knew orchids grow in the wild in the Caribbean, but I had no idea that you could just bump into orchids along the trail in Maine!

And there were lots of pitcher plants – carnivorous plants that grow where the soil is so poor that they have to rely on bugs for nutrition rather than the soil.

I bumped into the wreckage of an airplane. Supposedly the plane crashed around maybe 1990. Thankfully the father and son managed to land the plane very gently and walk away from the crash.

The views were sparse, but when we could see beyond the immediate trees, the sense of space was something.

Someone must have felt that hikers would need some encouragement — I bumped into this sign while ascending Third Mountain. (I also ascended Mount Three and a Half — the names need serious help!)

Near the high points, the coniferous woods became incredibly mossy— literally covered with bright green moss. The effect was stunning!

I finally came to Chairback Gap Lean-to. I was ahead of the other five hikers by a fair bit, and it was late, so I was pretty certain that some wouldn’t arrive at our destination before dark. I thought long and hard about setting up camp at this lean- to, but eventually, I decided to hike on to our agreed-on destination. The miles had to be done somehow, and they might as well be done this evening.

2 1/2 miles later I finally arrived at East Chairback Pond, a lovely isolated northern lake. The campsite was not an official one, so I set up my tent in some open space alongside this beautiful pond in the North woods in the middle of nowhere. After making camp, I took a deep breath, and enjoyed the overwhelming sense of stillness and peace.

After a while Shaun showed up. Around dusk Katie and the other Sean walked in, and well after dark Pam and Anna hiked in by headlamp.

We heard the haunting sound of a loon multiple times, reminding us that we are in the North woods.

12 1/2 hours of hiking makes for a long day!

Today is a great day for a long walk in the woods!