Day 139: Hike from East Chairback Pond to Logan Brook Lean-to

Getting to the top is optional. Getting down is mandatory

August 13, 2024
AT miles: 14.5
Ascent: 3919’
Descent: 3049’
Weather: another perfect day
High points: the views from White Cap Mountain were spectacular

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Since yesterday was such a long hard day and today is another 14+ mile day, we set off bright and early, expecting a grueling day.

After a mile or so of solid downhill, we came to Katahdin Ironworks Road. The Hundred Mile Wilderness is very much wilderness, but it is owned by the paper companies, and logging roads do run through it. We crossed about one logging road per day.

Shortly afterwards we reached West Pleasant Branch River, which we had to ford. Thankfully, the surplus water from hurricane Debbie seems to have run off so it was only up to our knees.

I then hiked through an area of virgin forest — one of the few on the East coast.

The trail for the first half of the day was absolutely lovely, though still filled with rocks and roots.

I took a long break at the Carl A Newhall Lean-to, and then began an absolutely demented ascent up White Cap Mountain. The crazy climb had four parts. The first ascent was absolutely brutal, with a huge number of steps and rock scrambles and mud. The only redeeming feature was the over 100 stone steps that at least made the footing easy some of the time.

I saw Indian pipe and beautiful mushrooms.

Then there was the first descent, followed by the second ascent, the second descent, the third ascent, the third descent, and then the final fourth ascent. The climb was so steep and long that it reminded me of the mountain in the Grinch Who Stole Christmas!

When I finally made it to the top of White Cap Mountain, however, the pain disappeared. The views were amazing. The mountains disappeared into infinity, and since we’re in the middle of the Hundred Mile Wilderness, there was almost no sign of human civilization.

Lingonberry grew hidden among the rocks near the summit.

Mt Katadin loomed massive and threatening and foggy.

I spent 45 minutes at the summit, letting the majesty of the moment sink in.

The summit was full of small rocks that were impossible to walk on and white blazes and cairns to help hikers stay on the trail.

The descent was surprisingly steep, but after 1.7 miles I pulled into the shelter. It was a long day! I was the first one of our group here – everyone’s going to be exhausted.

Today is a great day for a long walk in the woods!